End Homelessness

How is Homelessness High Fashion?

Published September 02, 2009 @ 06:21AM PT

I'm confused. 

Amid our worldwide economic recession, homelessness is on the rise. Domestically, with local budgets being slashed, it's not far-fetched to say we have a bona fide crisis on our hands. 

So why is homelessness suddenly being dubbed "high fashion?"

To be clear, it's not that every "homeless high fashion" story is negative. Take, for example, this fantastic news: Homeless Tales contributor Bri (who happens to be homeless herself) landed a dream internship at Elle Magazine. It's a really cool story, and I encourage you to read it all here. Needless to say, this inspirational story has garnered international media attention. Which is extremely cool for Bri (whose story, by the way, you can watch here). 

But, this is where the positivity stops. 

Also getting attention in the world of fashion is Scott Schumann, also known as the Sartorialist. He featured a photograph of a NYC homeless man on his popular blog. He wrote, "Usually people in this man's position have given up hope. Maybe this gentleman has too, I don't know, but he hasn't given up his sense of self or his sense of expressing something about himself to the world."

Perhaps. And not to undermine the importance of self-expression, but what about his safety or basic needs? Aren't these concerns more important than how he pairs his clothes?

Finally, the cover of Italian Vogue features two models touting a look that the blogosphere has dubbed "homeless chic." (See image below.)

Is this cutting-edge, recession-inspired design? Or are fashionistas just short on ideas? 

Perhaps this isn't offensive to some, but I think otherwise. As John Joel Roberts of LA's Homeless Blog rightly points out, "homeless chic" is the ultimate oxymoron, not to mention a slap in the face to those who have fallen on rough times and are struggling to get by:

Just imagine. You lose your job, and your home. You end up in a shelter or on the streets struggling to figure out how to get back into housing, or when and where your next meal might be. You take hand-me-down clothing from the local church or homeless agency, desperately trying to find something that matches. 

Then some highfalutin, out-of-touch designer wants to highlight your looks like you're some high society caricature. It's a form of circuitous degradation at its worst.

Perhaps we should be asking this question: Why is the fashion world suddenly latching on to a socio-economic issue like homelessness? Is it a tribute? Mockery? Something inbetween? Or are these creative geniuses just out of ideas? 

And if homelessness can be dubbed couture, where we will go next? Will future cover girls be dolled up with black eyes and bloody lips, as "domestic violence chic" takes flight? Where will we draw the line? 

For the countless individuals around the world who work everyday to end homelessness, it's a slap in the face from the high fashion world to send the message that homelessness is, like, en vogue.

 

Lead photo from Fashion Week Daily. Photos from Modelinia and the Sartorialist

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Comments (10)

  1. Emily Gertz

    The Sartorialist has taken his own particular, and particularly visible, platform to humanize a homeless person.  How is that wrong?

    It's certainly important to extend the conversation from there -- taking the opportunity to bring attention to this man's supposed material needs, as you are trying to do here. (Since it does not appear that The Sartorialist actually asked him about himself and his needs, a lot is being assumed around this image.)  

    But you do pretty much discount the "importance of self-expression" to this man.  It strikes me as patronizing.

    As for homeless chic, if materially secure people actually go around dressing this way, then that's offensive!  (See the Olsen twins and their Stevie Nicks-meets-breadline fashion aesthetic.)

    But on another level, these fashion images are channeling everyone's fears about the economic recession, about destitution, about the contrast between our recent boom of consumer excess and the humbling results.

    If these images were in a museum (and they could be before long), they'd be celebrated as edgy expressions of the contradictions of late-stage capitalism.  

    Instead they're in fashion mags and on fashion web sites, where arguably they are going to reach, and hopefully disturb, a lot more people.

    Posted by Emily Gertz on 09/02/2009 @ 08:00AM PT

  2. Aaron Shaw

    We have to understand that as the threat of economic uncertainty and a lcak of understanding concerning health care issues we are placing ourselves to resemble the medival times as a sense of lawlessness embarks the nation.

    Nothing is safe any more. Could be the expression that is being emphasized as a lack of hygine and self preservation seems to be the innovative new moderized urban american look. 

    Posted by Aaron Shaw on 09/02/2009 @ 07:52PM PT

  3. Cherita Smith

    I have to admit, I find the patronizing tone of posts like this from those who advocate for the homeless disappointing. Here is an opportunity to engage the public at large in dialogue about the issue of homelessness (and not the first arisen from the fashion industry either), but instead that opportunity is squandered by condescension and self-righteousness. I mean, really? Homelessness being perceived as "en vogue" is offensive and negative, a slap in the face? I would think that perception of homelessness is leaps and bounds better than the one that leads to "bum fight" videos.

    Perhaps you're not one of the people who think of fashion as a form of self-expression, and that self-expression plays a pivotal role in mental well-being, but there are MILLIONS of others who do. To be so dismissive and derisive of something that is important to so many only makes them tune out whatever message you're sharing. Thus, you effectively end up preaching to the choir. How is that going to help foster change? It's not.

    And in the case of Steven Meisel, the photographer who shot the Vogue cover, he often deals with social justice issues in his work. He wants to shock people, to open their minds, to get a dialogue going, and he uses the platform he's been given to do that: fashion photography. It's unfortunate that, in this instance at least, many of the people who are best equipped to help engage and expand that dialogue are choosing not to do so. Imagine how much further your message could have gotten if you had dispensed with all the condemnation and instead focused on the question of "why is homelessness capturing the public's attention in this way?"

    Posted by Cherita Smith on 09/03/2009 @ 10:29AM PT

  4. Shannon Moriarty

    These are all great points, and I thank you all for your thoughtful comments. 

    I admit that do not closely follow the works of either photographers whose work is featured above, so I'm not familiar with their intentions or history of dealing with these topics. My reactions were composed after reading other reactions around the web.

    I think it's wrong to so quickly dismiss the reactions of homeless advocates, chiding us for not being more open-minded. Understand that when you deal with people everyday who have lost everything -- material possessions, hope, pride, etc. -- it's pretty devastating. Then to see what essentially look like caricatures on the cover of a fashion magazine of real people you deal with everyday, or a picture snapped of a homeless man only because of the clothing he's wearing, the knee-jerk reactions you're reading might be a bit more understandable. 

    Perhaps this is a teachable moment that I missed. But do you really believe that images in a fashion magazine or on a fashion blog will disturb people enough to care? What about the stories that, almost daily, grace the pages of newspapers and magazines about real people's plights? Shouldn't that have the same effect? What about the people we see on the streets everyday? I don't see how models dressed as stereotypical homeless people opens an opportunity for *new* dialogue. Homelessness and poverty surround us everywhere we go, yet many people will continue to flip through the pages of those magazines without giving the plight of real homeless people a second thought. 

    Perhaps I was wrong to discount a man's self expression and instead focus on his need for housing. Thing is, I'm one of the millions who believes wholeheartedly that self-expression is a key part to one's happiness. And the vast majority of the homeless people I've come across can't even think about self-expression until they have regular access to food, a safe place to sleep, and restored dignity (Maslow agrees). But you're right - this sweeping generalization certainly isn't true for everyone.

    Ultimately, I really hope the sentiments expressed above are correct. I hope people who see images like these become disturbed enough to become further engaged in the topic.

    Posted by Shannon Moriarty on 09/03/2009 @ 11:33AM PT

  5. Cherita Smith

    Well, I myself have been homeless -- not chronic living on the street homeless, but homeless all the same, so I understand the constant focus on survival issues faced. But you know what? There where times when I spent my last few dollars on the latest issue of Vogue because it was an escape from that constant worry that made me feel better. You know what else made me feel better? Dressing cute, because it's something that has always been important to me and I knew that if I "let myself go" I'd just sink (deeper) into despair. The shallow vanity of youth? Maybe. But it helped me preserve a state of mental well-being, as much as is posible in such a situation. So no, I honestly don't understand these kinds of knee-jerk reactions.

    That said, I think it's great that there are such passionate advocates like yourself. But yes, I do think you missed a teachable moment -- it seems many are so focused on who they are advocating for, they've forgotten who they are advocating TO. If the purpose is to change the perceptions and minds of regular, everyday people (and that should be part of it or else what's the point?), then you have to reach them at the level they're at now. And, unfortunately, where that's at is being immune to the homeless and poverty that surrounds them everyday. Maybe they "should" think one way or another, but they don't. If you want to reach them you kind of have to look beyond shoulds, or no one will hear you. So yes, I absolutely think images of models dressed like homeless people on the cover of a major fashion magazine opens an opportunity for dialogue, because that is an image that people will SEE. And clearly, it has sparked conversation, since there have been numerous reactions around the web, as you yourself stated.

    But again, that said, I don't think it's enough to get people to necessarily "care" or become engaged in the topic. And that's where the opportunity is missed: people are paying attention to the issue right now, in this moment. But instead of grasping that and approaching them on their level and saying look here, this is what homelessness is really about and pointing them in the direction of information that will engage those who attempted to look deeper, all I've read are people railing against the pretentious fashion industry for being so "offensive." As I said before, that just makes people tune you out, and those who would be inclined to dig deeper just move on. It sucks that it works that way, but it does and if you want to change anything (and I think you really do!), then you have to keep that in mind.

    Posted by Cherita Smith on 09/03/2009 @ 12:42PM PT

  6. Shannon Moriarty

    Posted by Shannon Moriarty on 09/04/2009 @ 01:27PM PT

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  8. Paloma Rohrbaugh

    *The following is not meant to be a deep discussion on the merits or drawbacks of the article or the subject of homelessness as fashion, merely an observation*

    All I can think of when I see those Vogue shots is Zoolander and that they've either lost their mind or there's an evil plot afoot and they're trying to get rid of a model.

    Posted by Paloma Rohrbaugh on 09/08/2009 @ 05:52AM PT

  9. Mimi Nguyen

    I think it's pretty clear from the comments that follow the original post on the Sartorialist are not about a increased "awareness" of homelessness, but an opportunity to not-so-subtly affirm dichotomies of deserving and "undeserving" homeless, and to congratulate each other for their moral sensitivity. This is par for course in much documentary photography, and shelves and shelves of photo criticism has been directed at the question of whether picturing oppression for the consumption of a privileged audience actually produces social change. It should also be noted that the Sartorialist did not talk to this man at any point, nor ask his consent, which he usually does of his subjects. I actually wrote a long post about this image as the fashion and politics blog Threadbared: http://threadbared.blogspot.com/2009/09/tramp-chic-and-photograph.html.

    Posted by Mimi Nguyen on 09/12/2009 @ 05:15PM PT

  10. Emily Gertz

    Those are astute critiques, Mimi.

    Posted by Emily Gertz on 09/13/2009 @ 08:50AM PT

  11. Reply to thread
  12. Thomas McHugh

    Speaking as a formerly homeless man...

    I think there are two problems that need to be addressed.

    1 : The general public's perception/misconception that if your homeless...Its because your a lazy bum.

    2 : All too often there are and will be those in the media as well as elsewhere that will seek to profit at the expense of the homeless.

    In my opinion, its because of those 2 reasons, in part, that the problem of homelessness will continue to exist and its also those 2 factors that makes it all the harder to solve.

    Also, because of reason # 2, I tend to be very suspisious of the intentions of the fashion world when they market homelessness as a fashion choice rather than a situation resulting from circumstances beyond the controll of those who are homeless.

    Posted by Thomas McHugh on 09/26/2009 @ 07:25PM PT

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Shannon Moriarty

Shannon has worked in homeless shelters and service organizations in San Francisco, the Triangle region of North Carolina, and currently in the greater Boston area. She is a graduate student studying housing and urban policy at Tufts University.

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